In a world of instant gratification and disposable culture, restoring and building rather than simply maintaining is becoming the new best practice in viticulture, says global and local experts in the wine sector, most notably Spier, voted one of the best vineyards in the world in 2021.
Spier is one South African farm that is a long way down the road of transitioning from sustainability to regeneration, says the winery co-owner Mariota Enthoven.
“The concept of sustainability was useful in that it allowed us to understand the environmental and social challenges we were facing, but a preservation mentality does not take one into the future,” says Enthoven.
“Investing in a circular economy makes sense, as it creates a vital and abundant space that supports both ecosystems and communities,” says Enthoven.
Heidi Newton-King, Spier’s sustainability and human resources director, adds, “It’s not just about managing risk or cutting down on emissions, but changing what we want the future to look like.”
What does it entail?
Conventional farming methods, which typically use herbicides to eliminate weeds, add fertilisers to replace what plants have taken out of the soil, and deal with pests and diseases with systemic fungicides and insecticides. They are being replaced with a closed-loop system of nurturing and care that not only looks after the planet but also produces superior crops.
UK plant biologist and wine blogger Jamie Goode, who last year published his book Regenerative Viticulture, explains that vines are simply part of a more complex below-ground ecosystem ‘encompassing fungi, bacteria, insects, nematodes, arthropods and worms, as well as plant roots. Regenerative farming looks to support and nourish this ecology.
A key aspect of regenerative viticulture is cover cropping to get the soil working properly. “It’s really important to have things [other than vines] growing in soils to have life in them, and thus good levels of soil organic material,” explains Goode.
Another aspect is about not disturbing the soil – while tilling deals with weeds effectively, it disrupts soil structure and the delicate ecological balance of soil life.
“Everything starts with the soil, as we tell the viticulture and oenology students who visit the winery,” says Spier’s managing director Frans Smit.
Water is life
Then there’s the issue of water. “Water preservation will be the biggest issue in years to come, with the growing population in the Western Cape, and agriculture will come under huge pressure,” adds Smit.
South Africa isn’t the only country facing this issue. Most of the moisture supplying Argentina’s vineyards originates high in the Andes mountains in the form of glaciers and melting snowfall, and climate change has lessened the amount of moisture available in groundwater and for agricultural purposes. Water conservation measures are therefore constant priorities.
Healthy soils sequester carbon, which improves the soil’s ability to hold water, increasing resilience in hot conditions and meaning that less water is needed to get the same result.
Using regenerative farming practices “allows us to preserve the quality, health and biodiversity of our soils and their ecosystems, which subsequently can absorb greater quantities of CO2 than conventionally farmed soils,” says Anne Bousquet, president of Domaine Bousquet in the Mendoza wine region.
The Mendoza wine region has used organic and regenerative farming since its vineyards were planted in 1999.
Every little bit helps
For even the most enthusiastic and well-meaning of farmers, however, a total overhaul of conventional methods may not be possible. But an immediate entire transition isn’t necessary. American organic and biodynamic consultant Andrew Beedy says that if a full-scale revamp isn’t feasible, conventional farmers should use any biodynamic practices they can work into their system.
“The more people we have doing it, the better,” he adds.
Craig Camp, general manager of Troon Vineyards in Oregon, USA, who partnered with Beedy to transition from conventional farming to a regenerative operation, understands that maybe it’s a long-term endeavour, but stresses that it’s worth it to rebuild soils using the vineyard’s natural resources. “Regenerative [agriculture] improves soils, vines and wine forever,” he says.
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