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in Lifestyle

Water into wine: Cathedral harvest triumphs

Discover the remarkable story of the 2023 harvest at Cathedral Cellar in the Cape Winelands. Despite facing a water deficit, the vineyard team persevered and produced a range of exquisite wines that tell a story of dedication and perseverance

by Ivor Price
27th April 2023
Mynhardt Joubert’s Provençal lamb shank steals the show with its white-wine infusion, green olives and artichokes. The renowned chef describes it as a true celebration of the autumn harvest season at Cathedral Cellar. Photo: Supplied/Food For Mzansi

Mynhardt Joubert’s Provençal lamb shank steals the show with its white-wine infusion, green olives and artichokes. The renowned chef describes it as a true celebration of the autumn harvest season at Cathedral Cellar. Photo: Supplied/Food For Mzansi

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The 2023 harvest at Cathedral Cellar in the Cape Winelands was nothing short of a vinous journey filled with challenges and triumphs. From budburst to bottle, the winemaking process is a testament to the hard work and dedication of the vineyard and cellar teams.

As the grapes ripened and the harvest season approached, the vineyard team worked tirelessly to ensure the vines received enough water to produce high-quality fruit, says KWV’s chief viticulturist, Marco Ventrella.

He knew that this year’s vintage would be driven by water, and he and his team did everything they could to preserve the precious resource.

“The actual dam in the Western Cape is the soil,” explains Ventrella. “So, when we receive 50% less water than we hoped for during the previous year, we start a vintage with a water deficit, leading to an earlier onset of vine stress that can quickly complicate the season.

“As a result, in 2023, we ended up with much smaller berries and bunches and a considerably lighter yield – arguably the smallest we’ve seen in 15 years. For some, the December rain meant unforeseen damage. But, for the most part, it had a positive result for us at KWV and Cathedral Cellars, bringing much needed relief to the dryland vineyards of Darling and the Swartland.”

With the arrival of 9 January, the harvest season began, and the vineyard team started picking the grapes. The journey continued until 29 March, requiring nearly three months of constant attentiveness as the team traversed various regions in the Western Cape to observe intricate details and changes.

Despite facing a water deficit, they persevered, and the final grapes were brought to the Cathedral Cellar at KWV.

As the last grape was picked, the hope and hive of activity of harvest turned to a time of settling and ageing in the cellar. Cathedral Cellar chief winemaker, Justin Corrans, was excited about the aromatic white wines that were produced, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc, which had a provocative pungency in the vineyards.

Chardonnay lovers could look forward to wines with great palate weight and ageability, while the Cabernet Sauvignon continued its legacy as the king of red grapes.

A feast of thanks

The wines had begun their journey, but they were not the only ones with stories to tell. Cathedral Cellar brand manager, Tanya Blokdyk, recognised the importance of embracing the year and each wine to follow from this harvest. With the harvest season concluded, it was time for a feast of thanks.

“Harvest is the opening paragraph to a wine’s story,” says Blokdyk, “That is why a time of thanksgiving to every hand, raindrop and healthy berry is vital to embrace the year and each wine to follow from this harvest. With the harvest chapter concluded for now, we are looking forward to the wines’ development in cellar as the rest of their stories unfold.”

Chef Mynhardt Joubert’s culinary creations celebrate the qualities of Cathedral Cellar’s exquisite range of wines, capturing the spirit of harvest in a feast that inspires gratitude. Photos: Supplied/Food For Mzansi
Chef Mynhardt Joubert’s culinary creations celebrate the qualities of Cathedral Cellar’s exquisite range of wines, capturing the spirit of harvest in a feast that inspires gratitude. Photos: Supplied/Food For Mzansi

Ambassador chef Mynhardt Joubert was asked to develop a series of recipes to highlight the qualities of this exquisite range of wines. The resulting menu was a feast that could only evoke gratitude.

The Italian-style schiacciata bread made with Cabernet Sauvignon grapes was a symbol of togetherness, while the iconic curried pickled yellowtail had a deep-rooted cultural base in South African society.

The white-wine infused Provençal lamb shanks with green olives and artichokes heralded the colder winter months, and the Pinotage chocolate cake with dark chocolate ganache and sea salt was a magical dish that would remain in the minds of diners long after the last bite.

“Each of these dishes relates a very special story,” explains Joubert.  

As guests this week savoured the feast, they reflected on the vinous journey from budburst to bottle. The journey had been filled with challenges, but the team had persevered, and the result was a range of exquisite wines that told a story of hard work, dedication, and perseverance. The wines were a testament to the team’s passion for winemaking and their commitment to producing high-quality wines.

The 2023 harvest at Cathedral Cellar had been a journey of water into wine, a journey that had required constant attentiveness, dedication, and perseverance. But as they looked back on the journey, they could not help but feel inspired by the result. The wines were a symbol of the team’s hard work, and they knew that each bottle would tell a story that would be savoured by wine lovers for years to come.

READ NEXT: Meet Mzansi’s new tavern chef champion

Ivor Price

Ivor Price is a multi-award-winning journalist and co-founder of Food For Mzansi.

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